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Momofuku Ko has baffled the art of the affected but affectionate chef’s counter. Photo: Tirzah Brott/New York Magazine
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The Abundant Tasting Card Boom has connected apace aback the aftermost time we appear this list, so let’s reiterate a few arena rules: We’re not interested, here, in the casual chef’s card that ability appearance up alone already or alert a week, or the beyond haute cuisine restaurants like Eleven Madison Park that use the architecture in their alveolate dining rooms. The accountable of this awful abstract baronial is the discreet, small-sized enactment breadth banquet is able in advanced of the diner, usually at a baby counter, and served advance by course, generally by the chef him or herself.
1. Momofuku Ko8 Extra Pl., nr. 1st St.; 212-203-8095
The grandfathering of all precious, new-age New York Burghal tasting apartment stays aloft our listings, admitting the actuality that the prices accumulate active steadily advancement ($255 per person, aback aftermost we checked), and admitting the actuality that David Chang seems to absorb best of his time in L.A. these days, disposed to his added ample and extensive ball and dining empire. As is usually the case with dining empires, however, the key to adherence and success lies with the aggregation on the ground, which begins with Ko’s controlling chef, Sean Gray, who mans his base abaft the dining counter, night afterwards night, like a hardly serious-faced Captain Kirk on the arch of his advanced vessel. Unlike at added abstruse tasting operations about town, Gray and his cooks get their influences and capacity from all over (caviars from Idaho, uni from Maine and Japan, shiso aroma from France), and if you appetite a added abundantly priced, down-home aftertaste of their adroit appearance of cooking, the à la carte bar operation, which opened in aboriginal 2018, is one of the bigger cutting-edge gourmet deals in town.
2. Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare431 W. 37th St., nr. Tenth Ave.; 718-243-0050
We weren’t big admirers of the aboriginal adaptation of this César Ramirez destination that helped spawn the abundant tasting allowance fad aback it opened abutting to a accidental Brooklyn grocery abundance several years back. But the new Manhattan address (behind a aperture in the aback of an bearding Hell’s Kitchen grocery store, in case you haven’t heard) are beyond and added ample than the old quarters, and the abundantly arrogant Ramirez seems to accept complete a little over the years (yes, aliment photos assume to be acceptable now). If you can handle the prohibitive prices ($395 and counting), and if you’re weary of spending your evenings as we do, abject in the latest trendy, noise-filled bar-restaurant about town, it’s a pleasure, already every year or so, to watch the chef and his able agents about-face out all sorts of 20th-century gourmet favorites (barely-cooked lobster; truffles aloft truffles; buttery, beer-fed A5 beef aureate in from Japan) in the grand, advanced kitchen, which is the admeasurement of a baby amphitheater stage.
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3. Atomix104 E. 30th St., nr. Park Ave. S.; no phone
Curing and beverage are foundations of Korean cuisine, like adulate and chrism sauces in France, and if you’re a fan of the talented, Michelin-decorated chef, Junghyun Park, you’ll acquisition all sorts of little wonders on affectation at this Nomad tasting room. Depending on what time of year you bead by, you’ll acquisition alimentative bowls of rice brindle with blooming pools of Dungeness backtalk roe; soft, candylike cubes of Wagyu aperitive in a array of bake-apple juices; and segments of avoid breast that the kitchen sears, roasts, and sears afresh afore adornment with an adorable actuality alleged “gochujang mole.” At $175 per person, the 12-course banquet is a about arrangement for associates of the high-rolling omakase set, and like Ko, there’s a bar allowance confined à la carte aliment like steak tartare and an addictive adaptation of Korean-style craven wings blimp with rice.
4. Atera77 Account St., nr. Church St.; 212- 226-1444
The much-praised, star-bedecked Danish chef Ronny Emborg is added of an apparent archaeologian than his accomplished predecessor, Matthew Lightner, who had a fondness, aback this seminal little Tribeca atelier opened in 2012, for plating dinners on anxiously abiding bags of river dust and beds of moss. Emborg’s specialty is what he calls “sensory” dining, and although it still costs a baby affluence to buy a abode at the 13-seat bar ($285, the aftermost time we checked), the able combinations of basal smells and flavors (birch bark, juniper, a aroma of woodsmoke), the categorical ingredients, and the capital Continental address abide to accomplish this one of the best big-money tasting extravaganzas in town.
5. Shabu Shabu Macoron61 Delancey St., nr. Allen St.; 212-925-5220
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Mako Okano’s absorbing one-woman omakase collective is a actual argument on the joys of the common Japanese hot pot alleged shabu-shabu. The prices ($128 for seven courses) are hardly college than at your boilerplate shabu-shabu joint, it’s true, but compared to the affectionate of banknote bodies are battery out at added alert little tasting joints about the city, it’s a about steal. You’re additionally not activity to acquisition blotchy slivers of Wagyu or pork like this on the hot-pot ambit about boondocks (not to acknowledgment uni served with bootleg yuba on a spoon). The aggregate of focus and acquaintance makes the snug, eight-seat operation feel beneath like a accepted restaurant banquet and added like a clandestine accident adapted up by the chef at her dining adverse aback home.
6. Okuda458 W. 17th St., nr. 10th Ave.; 212-924-0017
The burghal is ample in Japanese-style tasting rooms, but for omakase freaks who ambition to acquaintance the aboriginal “kaiseki” tasting acquaintance after booking a flight to Tokyo, this alluringly mannered, 13-seat restaurant, which opened in the abatement of 2017 on the far western binding of Chelsea, is the abode to do it. Aloof like at the aboriginal Okuda aback in Tokyo, the dining adverse is carved from Japanese wood, and on a contempo evening, abounding of the assemblage happened to be Japanese salarymen who were met at the aperture by women dressed in abounding kimono. The acceptable card (intricately carved sashimi, charcoal-grilled Wagyu, tastes of yuba and abundance yam decked with backwoods leaves) changes not aloof with the seasons but from ages to month, and alike anniversary to week, depending on what’s accessible in the markets both actuality and in Japan.
7. Blanca261 Moore St., nr. Bogart St., East Williamsburg; 347-799-2807
Carlo Mirarchi’s tasting card started out as a affectionate of improvised accident for bounded gourmets but has morphed, over the years, into an all-embracing dining destination breadth you’re added acceptable to acquisition sophisticates beeline off the even from London or Beijing than anyone from the surrounding neighborhood. The little kitchen is still account a appointment (Mirarchi cooks four times a week), but like abounding things in Kings County, it’s not absolutely as improvised as in the old days, and acknowledgment to the added absurd prices ($198 for dinner, afore drinks and wine), it drops a cleft or two on our adapted list.
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8. Uchu217 Eldridge St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-203-7634
The $255 set card at this spangled little eight-seat kaiseki tasting den bottomward on Eldridge Street can angular a little too heavily on the traditional, hardly annoyed signifiers of the gourmet experience, like Osetra caviar (flown in from Shanghai and spooned into duke rolls), foie gras and truffles, and A5 wagyu (served in the alarming sando form). But the Tokyo-style bar account is aberrant (call for the abode martini fabricated with Kinobi gin), and if you accept the all-important funds, several of the dishes dreamt up by Brooklyn Fare alum Samuel Clonts (soft accolade eggs with trout roe and pickled onions, the Peconic Bay scallops with uni and blooming apples) are account the abrupt amount of admission.
9. Gem116 Forsyth St., nr. Broome St.; 917-473-3223
There are all sorts of things to like about Flynn McGarry’s polished, 18-seat, Lower East Side tasting operation, from the affectionate blueprint (a alternation of two-seat tables set about the room, instead of the accepted formal, Japanese-style bar) to the above L.A.-style décor and vibe (flickering candles, a tawny, woodsy blush scheme, adorning pots of cacti actuality and there). But mostly what we like is the affable itself, which veers from a affectionate of able Japanese access (raw bounded clams over ice, uni brindled with attic seeds, diver scallops captivated in shiso leaf) to some of the finest animated vegetable creations we’ve tasted (truffle-rolled carrots, ash-grilled sunchokes, slow-roasted attic spooned with broiled Gruyère), and makes it adamantine to accept that this wunderkind baker aloof angry 20.
10. Secchu Yokota199 E. 3rd St., nr. Ave. B; 212-777-1124
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The chef-owner of this eponymous, abundantly appointed little tasting boutique in the East Village can trace his kaiseki roots to his grandfather, who, according to the restaurant’s website, “had the account of confined the Emperor of Japan.” The tempura-heavy card (freshly sizzled candied ebi shrimp, auto of broken eggplant, bendable chunks of beltfish from Japan’s Chiba prefecture) ability not be absolutely up to the Emperor’s standards, but at $100 for the best big-ticket omakase advantage (two appetizers, abounding tempura dinner, a pre-dessert, and dessert) in the common “lounge area,” the meal is about a arrangement compared to added tasting apartment about town.
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